Machine for shaping hats.



L. STEVENS.

MACHINE POR SHAPING HATS. Y APPLIGATION FILED SEPT. 2, 190s.

Patented Aug. 19, 1913.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

L. STEVENS.

MACHINE POR vSHAPING HATS. APPLIGATION FILED SEPT. 2, 1909.

1,070,745. Patented Aug. 19, 1913.

L. STEVENS.

MACHINE FOR SHAPING HATS.

APPLICATION FILED SH12, 1909.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

Patented Aug. 19, 1913.

25 3 jwfL/f L. STEVENS.

MACHINE FOR SHAPING HATS.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT.2, 1909.

- Patented Aug. 19, 1913.

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L. STEVENS.

MACHINE FORSHAPING HATS.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 2, 1909.

Patented Aug. 19, 1913.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

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LESLIE STEVENS, OF GLEN RIDGE, NEW JERSEY.

MACHINE FOR SHAPING HATS.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 19,1913.

Application filed September 2, 1909. Serial No. 515,912.

T0 a-ZZ 'whom t may concern.'

Be it known that I, LESLIE STEVENS, a citizen of the United States, residing at Glen Ridge, county of Essex, and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Machines for Shap' ing I-Iats, fully described and represented in the following specification .and the accompanying drawings, forming a part of the same.

This invention relates to a machine or ap-` paratus for shaping hats, and especially for shaping hats from felty or other suitable stretchable and moldable material, and, all though broadly applicable to the shaping of hats of othe-r forms, the invention is more particularly adapted and intended for shaping one-piece hats of the class or kgeneral shape known as extension-crown hats, that is, hats having a head opening smaller than the lower part of the crown, such Ismaller head opening in one-piece hats being formed by folding the felt or other material of which the hat is formed inward from the lower extremity of the crown and from the brim, and in some of its features the invention relates expressly to machines for forming hats of this kind.

The object of the invention is generally to provide a machine whereby hats, and espe--A cially one-piece extension-crown felt hats, may be produced more rapidly, with greater economy, and of superior quality than has been possible with the machines heretofore in use. j y l In shaping hats from felt `or other bodies or blanks, it is necessary that the body ibe firststeamed or otherwise treated to soften the felt or other material before -being stretched or pressed t0 shape, and that before lthe shaped hat is removed from the block or die or other shaping devices the stiffening be ycaused or allowed to set or harden again suiiicient-lyso that the hat will retain its shape. Thisnecessary treatment to soften and then reharden the yfelt or other material has added greatly to the difficulty, the time required, and the expense lof shaping of hats, and this has been especially the case in the shaping of hats of the class above referred to having the material folded inward to form a head opening smaller than the lower part of the crown; In fact, it has been impossible before my invention to shape hats of this kind otherwise than by handwerk, and the process has'been slow,

laborious and expensive and the results unsatisfactory. By my invention, delays and expense caused by the necessity of softening and then rehardening the felt are. very largely reduced, and the difficulties heretofore met with in t-he shaping of hats of all shapes are practically eliminated, and the invention makes it possible to shape hats of the class above referred. to as easily by machine as it has heretofore been possible to-l shape hats of ordinary vshape having the head opening the full size of the lower part of the crown.

In shaping hats in a machine constructed in accordance with the invention and embodying the various features thereof in the preferred form, the hat body, having been first softened or notas desired, is placed in the machine in position to be shaped and is then subjected to the softening action of steam, and when it has become sufficiently soft and while still kept soft by steam, is stretchedto the desired shape, and isthen, while still held in shape by the shaping devices, subjected to thedrying and cooling action of a current of cool air until the stiffening material or substance has become sufficiently set and the hat dried and sufficiently hardened to lhold its shape. l In forming extension crown hats, the edges of the hat body or blankvare hreld by suitablecircularly arranged clampmg or holding means, and after the body or blank has been sufficiently softened by the action of the steam, a Iforming: block is pressed into the central or crown portion thereof and the material is stretched about the block and folded inward over the outer face or base 'of the block by suitable means to form the head band smaller than the adjacent part of the crown. During the time that the hat iskbeing stretched over the block and inwardfrom 'the brim clamps, the steaming may be and preferably will `be continued. Then when the hat has been stretched to shape, the

steam is shut off, the hat is subjected to the i ports withthe links 28, by which they are connected to the hand lever 26. When the lever 26 is thrown from the position shown in Figs. l to 4e to that shown in Fig. 5, the folding plates will be moved inward to the position shown in Figs. 5 and 8, and as the plates approach the end ot their inward or folding movement the torce with which they are movedwill incr-ease on account of the toggle-like connection between the lever y 26 and the levers 27.

In order that the machine may be used for shaping hats with head openings ot ditterent sizes and shapes, means are provided for varying the amount of inward movement of the folding plates., and the plates are mounted in the machine so as to be readily removable to permit plates having folding edges ot diderent shapes to be used in the machine. For adjusting the inward movement of the folding plates, the links 29 are made adjustable in length; and the plates are readily removed and replaced in themachine by simply disconnecting; the levers 27 from the plates and removing the cover plate 28 so that the folding plates may then be lifted out of the guide-way in the top plate 2l.

rEhe cover plate 23 forms the lower member'of a clamping means by which the edges of the hat body are held during the shaping operation. The upper member of such clamping means is formed by an annular plate 30 which is carried by rods 3l depending from a cross-head 32 which is carried by a pair of vertical sliding rods mount` ed in bearings in the side trames l0, The cross-head is mounted so as to be capable o vertical adjustment on 4the rods 33 as shown in 2, and the supporting rods 3l are also adjustably mounted in tilecrosshead to provide for accurate leveling and adjustment or the plate SO.

The annular clamping plate 30 i l ably oan internal diameter sliglply than the or' tno brim of th est size hat to be shaped by the 'Aiachine, and is preferably provided on its under side with a wooden ta 35 sopas to avoid contact with the matt, .i of the hat th metal or which the clamping erably termed. rhe cover p terms the lower clamping plate preferably be made et metal, and contact l material, it is covered by a sheet ot ahle material torn:- of such a size that erst amarante corr ing plates, a series of flat rings 37 preferably of rubber or other suitable yielding elastic material are laid on the felt 36. Three such rings are shown in the drawings, but it -will be understood that a greater number of rings might be used, and that one or more of the rings will be removed, according to the diameter of the brim of the hat which is to be shaped by the machine. A flange 38 is provided at the edge of the plate 23 to hold the felt 36 and the rubber rings 37 in position. By making these gripi ping rings 37 of rubber or other suitable yielding elastic material, not only is a grip on a small area of the hat body provided for, but a positive grip throughout the length ot the clamping means is secured.

The rodsSB are normally held in the po- ,sition shown in Figs. l and 2 with the clamping plate 30 in its raised position by springs e0, and. are moved downward against the tension of the springs LLO to lower the cross head and clamping plate by means of al foot treadle 41 whichis connecte'd by a link Ll2 with `a lever a3 pivotally mounted on a support 44 and having` its tree end connected by a link 45 with a cross-bar Li6 extending between thelower ends of the rods 33. llhen the treadle has beendepressed to carry the clamping plate 30 down into opera-tive position, it is held by a rcatch. 39 to lock the cross head and clamping plate against upward movement. A hand lever 4:7 is also provided by which the rods 33 may be operated to lower the clamping plate 30 from its nor raised position, but which is especially intended for increasing the downward strain on the cross-head and upper clamping plate when they have been brought to their lower we or operative posit-ion. This hand lever l? is tast on a shaft e8 mounted in bearings at the ends ot the cross bar 46, and which shaft carries at each end an arm which is pivot-ally connected to one end orn a lin` the other end of which is pivoted to one of the side trames. When the hand lever e? is thrown over to the lett from the position shown in Fig. l, thercl'ore.l the rods il he forced downward by the action ol.l arms 9 and links o0, and similev l i rods S3 are thi' wn downward by pression of the treadle l-l, the hand will be thrown over to the lett from ,he f i: sition shown in l.; and when the r 33 have been given about theiv i ward movement, thc arms #lil and will have been brought into a which they stand almost in other, so that a comparatively slignt v applied to the hand lover will ci very strong downward pull to be ci' on the vrods lli-l' and a very strong' pi lie brougit to bear on the u plaie so es to insure a positn ful gripping of the edges of the hat body between the upper and lower vclamping plates.

A plunger rod 51 is mounted to slide vertically in bearings located centrally of the cross head 32 and carries at `its lower end a plunger head 52 for pressing the crown form or block down into the hat body. The plunger head is preferably adjustable on the rod, as by being secured in place t-hereon by a set screw as shown. The plunger rod is connected at its upper end to a hand lever pivoted at 011e side of the cross head, and the plunger' rod and lever are normally held in position to hold the plunger raised up to the position indicated by dotted 'lines in Fig. 1 by means of a weight 54 or other suitable means. The plunger 52 is depressed to force the forming block downward by throwing the lever 53 downward to the position shown by dotted lines in Fig. 1, and is held in that position by means of a hook 55 under which the lever is adapted to be engaged. V

Steam is admitted to the steaming and drying bhamber through a steam inlet 6() at the bottom of the chamber which connects with a supply pipe (3l, and the supply of steam to' the chamber is controlled by a valve 02. Means are provided for causing the'steam to be properly diffused as it enters the chamber A, and for this purpose a diifusing cap 63 may be provided. A drip pipe Gel is provided for carrying a-way any water of condensation which may collect in the chamber.

The setting and drying current of cool air is admitted to the steaming and drying chamber from an air supply pipe through an inlet opening 71 in the side wall of the chamber, and the admission of air is controlled by means of a valve or shutter plate 72 mounted to slide on the inner side of the side wall of the vchamber and having an inlet port 73, and which may be shifted to bring the port 73 opposite the inlet opening 71 to admit air, or to bring a solid portion of the plate opposite the inlet opening to cut off the air blast, as desired, by means ofA an operating rod 74 which extends through the side wall of the chamber and is provided with a handle in a position to be reached by the operator. An air outlet opening 75 is also provided in the wall of the chamber A, which also controlled by the shutter plate 72 which has a port 76 in position to register' with the, outlet opening 75 when the port 73 registers with the inlet opening 71. The air circulating through the chamber serves to cool and dry the crown lo-'l' the shaped hat. For cooling and drying Lor/ome from the air supply pipe 70 is arranged to direct a blast of air downward on to the brim of the hat and the inner fold which forms the head opening. This branch pipe, or blast nogzle, 80 is provided with a suitable valve 81 having a.v handle within conedge of the hat body between the clamping plates4 as shownin Fig. 8. The Valve 62 is then opened to admit steam to the chamber A, and a crown form or block of suitable shape and size, according to the shape and size to which the crown of the hat is to be shaped, is inserted beneath the plunger 52 into the hat body, and thehand lever 53 is operated to depress the plunger 52 and force the forming block downv to the position shown in Fig. 8, in which the outer face or base of the block is just below the plane of movement of the folding plates. AThe end of the plunger' rod 51 projecting down below/the bottom face of the plunger will enter a central hole in the forming block, as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 8, to center the block beneath t-he plunger. The insertion and positioning of the forming block may takeplace while the hat body is being softened by the steam admitted to the chamberl A. As will be seen from Fig. 8, the steam admitted to the chamber A will reach all parts of the hat body except. the small portion at the edge thereof which lies between the upper and lower clamping plates;y After the hat body has become sufficiently softened, the hand lever 26 is thrown over from the position shown in Figs. 1 to 4 to that shown mF ig. 5, thereby mov*- ing the folding plates 24. and 25 inward to stretch the felt `inward overv the forming block. The steam is then shut off, and the rod 74 is drawn outward to open the inlet 71 to admit air lfrom the pipe 70 to the chamber A and to open the outlet 75 to permit the steam in the chamber and then the air to escape, and the valve 81 controlling the blast of air from pipe 8O is alsovopened. The cool air circulating through the chamfer A will quickly set and dry the crown portion of the hat, and the blast from the pipe 80 will at the same time set and dry the brim and head band portion of the hat.

The hat will thus become quickly set and tion shown in Figs. 1 to 4 and the cross head 32 is allowed to rise to raise the upper" clamping -member and the plunger, and the formed hat with the forming block still in it may then be removed from the machine.`

It will be observed that in shaping a hat as above described the felt or other material of which the hat is formed is subjected to the softening action of steam and thereby kept soft, mellow and elastic during the entire shaping operation; that the hat is then set in the shape to which it has been stretched .and thoroughly dried while still held in shape by the shaping devices; and that when taken from themachine the hat will be shaped, set and dried andall ready for the finishing operations, without waiting for further drying. Delay and expense incident to putting the hats througha drying operation is thus avoided, and the forming blocks may be removed from the hats as soon as they are taken from the machine, thus avoiding the necessity of employing a great number of forming blocks, as is required when t-he blocks have to remain in the hats during the usual drying of the hats a drier or otherwise.

The brim of the hat may be left fiat or may be subsequently shaped as desired in any suitable way. The slight flare which the brim will have when the hat is taken from the machine may be easily removed and the brim made flat by simply setting the hat, brim down, with the block still in it on a suitable flat surface which may be slightly heated if desired.

The size and sha-pe of the crown of hats formed in the machine will, as above stated, depend upon the size and shape of the forming block used, and a forming block of al most any desired shape maybe used. kIn shaping hats with head open-ings smaller than the largest part of the crown, a sectional forming block of any suitable construction will be used, as for example, a block such as described in my application for U. S. Patent No. 495,898, filed May .14,

1909. Folding plates 24l and 25 having folding edges b of different shapes will be used and the inward movement of the folding plates will be adjusted through the adjustablel links 29, as hereinabove described, according to the size and shape of the head opening of the hats to be made. Fig. 11 shows the shape of a hat produced by the machine when a block of the shape shown in Figs. 8 and 9 is used, and Figs. 12 and 13 show hats which are examples of` other shapes which might beproduced on the ma- 'chine by merely usin different shape blocks.

When a formin lock with a flat outer face or base is use in the machine for forming extension crown hats, there is an advantage in using a plunger head 52 having its posilower part or pressing plate of the size and shape of the inside of the head opening of the hat to. be formed, so that in the operation of the machine when lthe folding plates are moved inward the inward fold of the felt or other material will be pressed by the folding plates against t-he peripheral face or edge of the plunger, thus not only securing a better formation of the fold which forms the head opening, but also causing the formin block to be positively centered by the'foldmg plates and thus insuring the proper. relative position of the head band and crown of the hat.. When the peripheral vface or edge ofthe plunger is to serve thus as a forming shoulderto coact with t-he folding plates informing the inner fold or head .band of the hat, plungers of the proper size and shape will be attached to the plunger rod according to the size and shape of the head openings of the hats to be shaped. Insteadof using a forming block with a fiat outer face, however, a block having a forming shoulder projecting from the outer face thereof, as shown and described in my said application is preferably used inthe Inachine. As will be clear from an inspection of Fig. 9, the operation of the machine'with a block with a flat outer face is employed, except that the forming shoulder 90 of the block will coperate with the folding plates 24 and 25 in forming the head opening of the hat andrin centering the block.

When it is desired to use the machine in forming hats having a head opening of the full size of the greatest diameter ofthe crown, it is not necessary to make use of the folding plates 24 and 2 5, as the'hat may be shaped by simply clamping the edge of forcing the forming block down into the crown of the hat through an opening of the proper size and shape corresponding to the size and shape of the head band or head opening of the hat.l To adapt the machine for shaping hats in this way` a size ring 95 is set on theplate, as shown in Fig. 10, and in order to insure the proper positioning of the size ring the inner edge of the plate 23 is cut away or rabbeted, as sLown at 96. In i operating the machine with the size ring in use, the size ring being in position, the hat body or blank will be placed in the machine and the edge of the material clamped between the upper and lower clamping members as before described. The material having then been softened by the admission of steam to chamber A, the plunger 52 will be depressed to force a block .of the proper yshape a d size downward so as to press the f central r crown portion of the material i to shape the hat as showngii Fig;".10. Then a block of this kind will be the same as when i 105 the material forming the hat body between the clamping plates 23 and '30, and then down through the opening of thevsize ring f v after the hat has been stretched to shape, the steam will be shut off and the air blasts turned on as before to cool and dry out the crown and brim portions'of the hat. The shape and size ofthe opening of the size ring will, of course, correspond to the shape and size of the head opening of the hat to be formed, and different rings will be provided Y for forming hats having head openings of different sizes and shapes. The plunger 52 will be adjusted on the plunger rod so as to cause the block to be depressed to the desired extent when the operating lever 53 is thrown down to be engaged by the catch 55, and the projected downward into the opening in the' size ring a greater or less distance, according to the desired height of-the hat crown. Obviously, the forming block may be simply pressed downward by the plunger or may be secured to and carried by the plunger, as desired. The shape of a hat such as may be produced with the machine used as shown in Fig. 10 and with a. block of the shape shown in that figure is shown in Fig. 14.

It will be understood that the invention is not to be limited to the exact construction shown and to which the foregoing description has been mainly confined, but that it` includes changes and modifications thereof within. the claims, and that features of the invention lmay be employed independently of othler features thereof and in machines differing widely from that shown.

That is claimed is:

vl. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of a steaming and setting chamber, shaping devices comprising holding means for holding the edge of a hat body or blank with the crown portion and the main part of the brim portion thereof exposed to the interior of the chamber and means for stretching the material inward from the holding means andA about a crown form,` means for supplying steam to said chamber during the shapingoperation, and means for causing cool air to circulate through said chamber for setting and drying the shaped hat.

2. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of al steaming and setting chamber open on one'side, a clamping member surrounding the open side of the chamber, means for clamping the edge of a hat body or blank against said clamping member,

means. for pressing a crown form into the central portion of the hat body or `blank within. the chamber, stretching means movable to cause the material to be stretched about the crown form and inward from the clamping means `to shape the hat, means for supplying steam to said chamber, and means for causing a current of cool air to circulate through said chamber for setting and drying the shaped hat.

3. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of a steaming and setting chamber open on one side, a clamping member surrounding the open side of the chamber, means for clamping the edge of a hat body or blank against said clamping member, means for pressing a crown form into the central portion of the hat body or blank within the chamber7 folding devices arranged to move inward over the outer face or base of the crown form tostretch the material over the form and inward from the clamping means toshape the hat and to form the head band, means for supplying steam to said chamber, and means for causing a current of cool air to circulate through said chamber for setting and drying the shaped hat.

4t. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of a steaming and setting chamber open on one side, a clamping member surrounding the open side of the chamber, means for clamping the edge of a hat body or blank against said clamping member, means for pressing a crown form into the central portion of the hat body or blank within the chamber, yfolding devices arranged to move inward over the outer face or base of the crown form to stretch the material over the form and inward from the clamping means to shape the hat and to form the head band, means for supplying steam to said chamber, means forl causing a current of cool air to circulate through said chamber for setting and drying the'shaped hat, and means for causing a current of cool air to strike the brim portion of the shaped hat outside of said chamber.

5. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of .a chamber open on' one side, holding means for holding the edge of a hat body or blank with the central part of the body or blank extending into said chamber through the'open side thereof, folding devices arranged to move inward over the outer face or base of a crown form which has been inserted into the central portion of the hat body or blank to stretch the material over the form and inward lfrom the holding means fto shape the hat 'and to formthe head band, and means for causing a current of cool air to circulate through said chamber to set and dry4 the shaped hat.

6. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of a steaming and setting chamber open at one side, a clamping ring surrounding the open side of the chamber, a second clamping ring movable to clamp the edge of a hat body or blank against the first said clamping ring, a plunger mounted to move with the second said clamping ring, means for giving the plunger additional movement to .press a crown form into the central portion of the hat body or blank within the chamber, stretching means operable to cause the material of the hat body or blank to be stretched about the crown form and inward from the clamping rings to shape the hat, means for supplying steam to said chalnber, and means for causing a current of cool air to circulate through said chamber for setting and drying the shaped hat.`

7. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of a chamber open at one side, a stationary clamping ring surrounding the open side of the chamber, a movable clamping ring for clamping the edge of a hat body or y blank against the stationary clamping ring, a plunger, a movable member by whichA the movable clamping ring and said plunger are carried,"means for moving the plunger relatively'to said member to press a crown farm into the central portion of the 'hat body or blank within the chamber, stretching means operableto cause the material of the hat body or blank to be stretched about the crown form and inward from the clamping rings to shape the hat, land means for causing a current of cool air to circulate through said chamber for setting and drying the shaped hat.

8. In hat shaping machine, the combination of a steaming and setting chamber open at the top, a clamping ring surrounding the open top of the chamber, a cross head mounted to reciprocate vertically, a second clamping ring carried bythe 'cross head, a crown form plunger carried by the cross head, means for giving the plunger an additional downward movement after the cross head has been-moved downward to carry the second clamping ring into clamping position, folding devices Amounted to move inward over the outer face or base of a crown form y which has been pressed downward by the plunger, means for supplying steam to Said chamber, and means for causing a current of cool airto' circulate through said chamber for setting and drying the shaped hat.

9. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of a steaming and setting chamber, shaping devices for shaping a hat with the crown of the hat extending .into said chamber, means for admitting steam to the chamber and for diffusing the steam in the chamber, and an airfinlet and lair outlet arrangedadjacent to each other to cause a current of air to circulate through the chamber and about the crown of the shaped hat.

10. In a hat shaping machina-'the combinationl of a' steaming and setting chamber for shaping a hat with the crown thereof `extending into the chamber, an air inlet for admitting a current of air to said chamber directed tangentially of the curved side wall thereof, and an air outlet adjacentto the air inlet.

l1. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of a steaming chamber open at the top, a clamping plate surrounding the openA top of the chamber, a removable clamping ring offyielding elastic material on said clamping plate, a clampingA plate movable toward the first said clamping plate to clamp the edge of a hat bodyor blank against said clampingring, and .means for stretching` the material of the hati'bodyvor blank inward from said clamping devices and abo-uta crown form to shape the hat.

Y 12. In a hat shaping machine, the? combination of a steaming chamber open at the top, a clamping plate surrounding the open top of said chamber, a series of successively smaller removable rubber clamping rings arranged one within the other on said clamping plate, a. movable clamping plate, and means for stretching the material of a hat body or blank the edge of which is held by said clamping devices inward from'the clampingfdevices and about a crown :form to shape the hat.

13. In a hat shaping machine the combination of a clamping plate, a series of suc# cessively smaller removable clamping rings arranged one within another' on said plate 100 to form anannular clamping facethe inner dimensions of which may be changed according to the size of the hat body or blank to be shaped by removing one or more of the inner rings, means for positioning the outer- 105 most ring, means'for clamping the edge of a hat. body or blank against the innermost clamping ring on the clamping plate, and means for stretching the material of the hat body `or blank inward from the clamping 110 devlces and about a crown form to shape lthe hat.

14. In a hat shaping machine, the combinationlot' a clamping plate, a removable clamping 'ring on said late, a movable 115 clamping plate for clamping the edge of a hat body or blank against said clamping ring, and means for stretching the matelrial of the hat body or blank held by said clamping devicesfinward from the clamping devices and about a crown form to shape the hat.

`15. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of a steaming chamber having an open side, clamping means surrounding the vopen side of the chamber, means for adapting said elamping means for hat blanks or bodies of different sizes to engage only a narrow edge portion thereof, and means for stretching the material of the hat body or blank held bysaid clamping means inward from the'clalnping means and about a crown form to shape the hat.

16. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of holding means for holding the edge of a hat body or blank, means for moving a crown form toward and through the plane bounded by said holding means, said means for moving, the crown form being adjustable to determine the position given to'the crown form, and means for stretching a hat body or blank inward from the holding means and about the crown form to shape the hat.

17. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of a steaming chamber open at one side, holding means for holding the edge of a hat body or blank around the open side of said chamber, a plunger for pressing a crown form into the open side of the cham'- ber, said plunger being adjustable for determining the position given to the crown form, and means for stretching a hat body or blank held by said holding means inward therefrom and about Vthe crown form to shape the hat. V

18. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of holding means for holding the edge of a hat body or blank, and means for forcing an intermediate part of the hat body or blank inward over the outer face or'base of a crown form to simultaneously stretch tlie brim portion of the material inward from the holding means and the crown portion over the crown form to shape the hat and to form the head band.

,19. In a machine yfor shaping hats, the combination of ,holding means for holding the edge of a hat body or blank, and means for forcing` an intermediate part of the body or blank inward over the outer face or base of a`crown form and against a forming shoulder to stretch the brim portion of the material inward from the holding means and t e crown portion over the crown form, thereby shaping the hat and forming the head band.

20. In a hat shapingy machine, the combi-y nation of holding means for holding the edge of a. hat body or blank, means for `forcing an intermediate part of the hat for subjecting the shaped hat tothe coolingyr and drying action of a current. of cool air,

while it is held in shape by the shaping means.

2l. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of lholding means for holding the ing an intermediate part of the hat body or blank inward over the outer face or base of acrown form to simultaneously stretch the brim portion of the material inward froin the holding means and the crown portion over the crown fornito shape the hat and to form the head band, and means for causing currents of cool air to flow against the crown and against the brim of the shaped hat while it is held in shape bythe shaping means.

2Q. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of holding means for holding thel edgeof a hat body or blank, means for subjecting the body or blank to the softening action of steam, means for forcing an intermediate part of the body or blank inward over the outer face or base of a crown form to stretch the brim portion of the material inward from the holding means and the crown portion over the crown form to shape the hat and to form the head band, and means for subjecting the shaped hat to the cooling and drying action of a current of cool air while it is held in shape by the.` shaping means.

23. In a hat shaping machine the .combination of holding means for holding the edge of a hat body or blank, means for moving a crown form into a hat body or blank held by the holding means, and folding devices arranged to move inward over the outer face or base Iof the crown form to l stretch the hat body or blank over the form and ,inward from the holding means to shape the hat and to form the head band.

24. Ina hat shaping machine, the combination of holding means for holding the edge of a hat body or blank, means for holding a crown form in position in a hat body or blank held= by said holding means, and folding devices arranged to move inward over the outer face or base of the crown form tostretch the hat body or blank over the form and inward from the holding means to shape the hat and to form the head band, said folding devices being adjustable for head bands of differentsizes.

25. In a hat shaping machine, the combination of holding means for holding the edge of a hat body or blank, means for holding a crown form in position in a hat body or blank held by said holding means,l a plurality of overlapping folding plates having folding edges extending in a direction inclined to the direction of movement ofthe plates, and operating means for moving said plates inward over the outer face or base of the crown form to stretch the hat body. or blank Iover the form` and inward from the holding means to shape the hat and to form the ead band.

E26. In a hat shaping machine, the combil nation of holding means for holding the edge of a hat body or blank, means for forcv edge of a hat body or blank, means for h o ding a crown form in position in a hat body or blank held by said holding means, a plurality of overlapping folding plates having folding edges extending in a direction inclined to the direction of movement of the` plates, operating means for moving said plates inward over the outer face or base of the crown form to stretch the hat body or blank over the form and inward from the holding means to shape the hat and to form the head band, and adjusting means for varying the inward movement of the folding plates.

2T. In a hat sha-ping machine, the 4combination of holding means for holding the edge of a hat body or blank, means for holding a crown form in position in a hat body or blank held by said holding means7 oppositely arranged and overlapping fold`- ing plates each having folding edges a and a folding and shaping edge b and operating; means for moving said folding plates inward lover the outer` face or base of the crown form to stretch the hat body or blanl` over the form and inward from the holding means to shape the hat and to form the head band.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set my hand, in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

LESLIE STEVENS. 

